This was our second visit to Intelligentsia’s roasting facilities, this time we visited their headquarters. The first visit was on the West Coast to their facility in LA. If you want to count Ecco, a roaster Intelligentsia owns, this was the 3rd Intelligentsia visit.
Rolando and I were talking on this trip and realizing we’re in a pretty unique position at this point. We’ve been committed to working with the best beans in the world since day one. And we won’t take a coffee into our program until we’ve had a chance to visit the roaster, learn about the company, see how they roast, etc. So to date we’ve visited a crazy list of roasters: Barrington Coffee, George Howell, New Harvest, Coffee Exchange, Speedwell, Barismo, Matt’s, Stumptown, Ecco, Barefoot, Four Barrel, Ritual, Verve, Intelligentsia (West Coast), Blue Bottle, Counter Culture, and after this most recent trip Alterra, Metropolis, La Colombe Torrefection, and now Intelligentsia (Chicago). I have no way to confirm, but I suspect nobody has ever done that. I’m guessing we’re the only folks out there that have visited these roasters, a roster that includes most of the best coffee roasters in the world.
Add to this the fact that we’re both non-industry folks,neither of us ever worked in a coffee shop, and you end up with this journey. We’re slowly learning about coffee, having fun with new and surprising cups, and learning about different company missions and cultures. Amazing how much they vary.
This brings us to Intelligentsia. These folks are one of the pioneers of the “Third Wave” of coffee, along with Stumptown, and Counter Culture. These folks started working in the 1990s to help others think of coffee more as an artisinal food (e.g., wine) and less like a commodity (e.g., corn). Intelligentsia is based on Chicago, but like Stumptown and Counter Culture have taken recent steps to expand around the country. I’m guessing the timing is related to Starbucks growth leveling, but maybe I’m wrong. Anyway, all are expanding, albeit in different ways. And all 3 of those players have done amazing and important things for coffee.
So we were pretty excited to visit Intelligentsia. When we arrived it had this funny cold feeling. I don’t know how to capture this very well, but just about every roaster we visit feels full of life. They remind me of artists studios. Sort of bustling, full of life and creativity. It’s a really fun feeling. I was surprised that the Intelligentsia headquarters had more of a corporate feeling. That picture is of Rolando sitting in the lobby. Not sure we’ve visited a single roaster with a lobby. In the roasting facility it was silent, no talking, no music. We were asked to wear hairnets (a first at a coffee roaster).
But in the roasting facility we met Xavier (did I get your name right?). He rocked. He moved with purpose and passion. Really awesome to see him in action. He told us all about the coffee and roasting approach, which was really fun.
This trip has us thinking a bit more about our coffee program. No question their beans are awesome, and they source very responsibly. On those measures Intelli is without questions one of the best in the world. But we didn’t come away from the visit with the same feeling we’ve had about our favorite roasters. We still haven’t met the owners (a first), we didn’t taste (a first, although we’ve obviously had a bunch of their coffee in the past), the facility wasn’t filled with that energy we’re used to finding. I suspect we just weren’t super important in their larger picture. Does that stuff matter?
So Intelligentsia has high quality coffee from responsible sources, yet they do not have the same culture as other roasters you visited and your visit was not what you expected. They are unique and have grown – is this a reason not to buy from them? If your current suppliers expand beyond a certain size will you stop buying from them? If you were only working with one or two suppliers and picking your favorite, that is one thing, but if it is just entering the rotation along with other worthy roasters of varying sizes, why not?
I would say that your dilemma is similar to the one I face when deciding to eat at Clover.
I go to Clover because I like the food, it is a good value, and I agree with your principals – working to be local and sustainable, etc. I go to Clover despite the way it makes me feel or the way I am treated there. I started going to the Clover truck at MIT when that was all there was. Now I frequent the Harvard Square restaurant. As you have expanded, the quality of the food has declined [at worst] and [at best] is inconsistent. Also, despite reassurances that you are working on the customer service, it still stinks. Some of your employees are great while some are downright rude. Also, there is a difference between being friendly and offering good customer service. Clover does not make me feel warm and fuzzy and I often get frustrated at how I am treated there. The wait times are ridiculous, sometimes waiting in line for someone to take my order and sometimes for the food. I would go to Clover more often if I could expect better and faster service, but I still go back and support Clover.
Sorry, that was kind of a rant. Perhaps you will find something useful in there.
Sarah –
Thanks for your comments. Bunch of stuff here.
On the Intelli stuff, I’m not saying I’m disappointed because they are large. Sorry, I just re-read my post and can see how I made that confusing. I meant that we’d had this experience with this 1 roaster, had us thinking in general whether there may be new ways to think about our program. That led to the smaller roaster comment, not that we have anything against Intelli just because they are large. Some of the other folks we’ve visited do comparable volumes, some even larger. There was a feeling of passion that was missing. Not saying I have perfect vision or anything, but this is the impression we had from our visit. We’re pretty forgiving of errors (god knows we’re responsible for enough ourselves), but put tons of value on aligning ourselves with people who have a similar feeling/ passion for what they are doing.
On our performance, it’s hard to hear that sort of criticism, but that’s what makes it so important for us. I’d love to hear more. Can I buy you coffee and ask you some questions? We’ve been working really really hard at HSQ on fixing those things you discuss, they were way worse 3-4 months ago. But if you’re still having trouble I’d love to learn more. Maybe we can start serving you better/ faster.
Whether you take me up on my offer or not, thanks a TON for caring enough to take the time to share.
Love your blog, I’ve been reading it since the MIT truck was permanently parked in the MIT spot that first winter waiting to be reopened in the Spring. I actually have had a similar experience with Sarah’s. When it was just you and Leah, the customer service was amazing, real mom and pop, my name was remembered after that very first day, and I really felt like my business was valued. But ever since Leah left, and your business has exploded (congrats, by the way) the customer service has been more of what you expect with fast food establishments. Despite still going to the MIT truck multiple times per week after you two left, it took that newer (at the time) crew like 6 months to even try and attempt at remembering my name, and now whenever I go to Clover I feel more like a dollar sign, then a valued customer. It could just be that I’m sentimental for the Clover service I once knew, but I go less and less now. But your food is good, and I still do recommend your establishment to visitors and fellow vegetarians.
Ayr,
I’ll reiterate that I do like Clover, despite my frustrations (yes, even in the past few months). E-mail me and we can find a time to talk. Thanks
-Sarah
the food lab in harvard sq can feel pretty sterile and impersonal. it’s more cold and factory-like. i feel more removed from the employees, the preparation, and the food itself. honestly, i think it might be 80% an architectural/interior design issue, but then i can’t really remove that from the processes/organization.
the trucks seem to be much homier; i feel like i get to know the people who work at the one i frequent most. those folks are less specialized and more flexible. everyone is right there and we entertain each other. it feels enriching. it feels more like an interaction i’d have with someone at burning man.
not to be all critical: your food regularly blows my mind. simple, delicious, local, veggie, healthy, and some wonderfully weird taste experiments. actually, i wish there were even more weird taste explorations at my local truck location (LMA).
and i
know you must think hard and open-mindedly about your processes, flows, and customer/employee co-experiences: having someone NOT behind a counter (or off the truck) being the first person you interact with shows a lot of insight.
take care,
jonathan
p.s. sorry for the split post. accidentally hit submit midway through.
Thanks for feedback! What time do you stop by? I think Lucia, at MIT, does a better job getting to know people than I ever did. But maybe you’re coming by when she’s not on shift?