The city we’re visiting, Vibo Valentia, has been in existence for 8000 years. Uncle Enzo directed us up a mountain, we parked, and found ourselves at a simple outdoor cafe. We were at the base of a castle that was built by the Normans in the year 1000. A round of Aperol and seltzer for everyone!

There is no such thing as drinking without food here. The spritzes came with little snacks: chips, crackers, corn nuts: all from a bag, and these little fried croquettes. We were going to see a lot more of those little fried croquettes, but we didn’t know it yet.

While we drank, we watched teenagers getting out of impossibly small cars and meeting up with their friends.